Basse Terre beach - where dreams become true vacations
Chances are your hotel will be right on a beach, or no more than 20 minutes from a good one. Plenty of natural beaches dot the island, from the surf-brushed dark strands of western Basse-Terre to the long stretches of white sand encircling Grande-Terre. Public beaches are generally free, but some charge for parking. Unlike hotel beaches, they have few facilities. Hotels welcome nonguests, but charge for changing facilities, beach chairs, and towels. Sunday is family day at the beach. Topless sunbathing is common at hotels, less so on village beaches. Most of the best beaches lie between Gosier and St-Francois on Grande Terre. Visitors usually head for the hotel beaches at Gosier. Stone jetties were constructed here to protect the beaches from erosion. Since this area has the largest concentration of tourists, it's likely to be crowded. These beaches are not peas in a pod. There's no shade at the Creole Beach fronting Creole Beach Hotel, although you can retreat to the bar there for a drink. A stone retaining wall blocks access to the water. Nearby, the Salako Beach has more sand and is set against a backdrop of palms that offer some shade. Part of this beach also leads up to a jetty. This is a fine sandy beach, although a little too crowded at times, and it also contains a snack bar. Also nearby, Arawak Beach is a gorgeous spot, with plenty of swaying palm trees providing a bit of shade on the beige sands. It, too, is protected by jetties. In Basse-Terre, a highly desirable beach is La Grande-Anse, just outside Deshaies, reached by heading west from Sainte Rose along the N2. You won't find any facilities here, but we think you'll enjoy the powdery sands, tranquil waters, and palm trees. Another desirable beach is Plage de la Malendure, on the west coast (the more tranquil side) of Basse-Terre across from Pigeon Island. This is a major center for scuba diving, but the sand tends to be dark here. If you want to escape the crowds, seek out the spurs and shoulders produced by the mountains of Basse-Terre. In the northwest is a string of fine sandy beaches. Although small, these are highly desirable enclaves for sunbathing. Favorites include La Plage de Cluny (near Pointe Allegre), Plage de la Tillette, and Plage de la Perle. Warning: The beaches on the north coast of Basse-Terre are exceedingly dangerous for swimming. Plage de Cluny is especially treacherous (with very large waves), and there have been several deaths by drowning. South of Pointe Noire, also on the west coast, is Plage des Caraibes, with its calm waters and sandy strip. This beach has picnic facilities, a shower, and toilets. Other good beaches are found on the offshore islands, Iles des Saintes and Marie-Galante (see the end of this chapter).
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